Laati Devi of Dhanairi
(Bhamnoli), Uptehsil Nankhari, Tehsil Rampur, Distt Shimla
Latti Devi temple :
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Village of Bhamnoli |
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Temple of Latti Devi, front view |
There is a lesser known, almost
forgotten and a very small stone temple in a beautiful small village called
Bhamnoli which overlooks magnificent range of snow clad Himalaya. It is located
in the district of Shimla in the state of Himachal Pradesh in India at Latitude
31.23N and longitude 77.44E. This village has a population of about 292 persons
living in around 67 households. Its main crop is apple and cherry.
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Rear view of Latti Devi temple |
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Carved piece of stone |
Latti Devi (latti in local language
means, the one who can not speak properly but may utter sounds to make him/her
understand and one who is hard of hearing also) is
worshipped as one of the many incarnations of Durga. According to folklore she
is believed to have sisters, who are also said to be incarnations of Durga. Maai
reside in the temple of village Losta (Kotgarh), other in the village Naula,
near Bhaira khad, still another resides in the village of Shamatla. All the
sisters are regularly worshipped by their
believers.
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Stone with a hole |
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Coin bearing year 1919 |
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Eroded piece of old wood frame |
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A carved stone pedestal |
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Stone lintels |
Many generation of this small village
have seen this temple of Latti Devi as it exists today, a dilapidated ancient
stone structure of forgotten eras, but with very significant and beautiful
carvings. The remnants of the stone carvings are littered around this small
temple in a careless manner. A beautiful ancient metal bell is just exposed to
harsh weather and theft. The old doors of the temple are replaced by new
tasteless and bland
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Handle of bell |
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Lower part of bell |
wooden panels. These doors are opened very seldom for
cleaning purposes. Daily incensing etc are done on the outside of the temple
only. No one knows about its history or even no one has any idea when it was
built. But as is believed about any
other old structure of worship, it is also believed to be erected during the 14
years exile time of Pandavas. The
amalakas placed on top of this small temple resembles temples of Orissa,
Bhuvaneshwara. The Kalashas on top of these amalakas are missing. People’s faith
in this goddess is so strong that it is believed that she is manifest
(pratyaksh) in all her powers and makes her unmistakable presence felt in many
ways. They worship her to get rid of many problems, be it personal or related
with family.
From the coins belonging to George
King Emperor and Victoria Queen Empress the years 1910, 1919 and 1942 are
readable. These were nailed on the wooden frames of the door of the temple by
the believers of the deity Latti Devi.
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Old embedded coin |
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Stone fragment of pillar |
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Old Victorian coins |
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View of Kot Kali range |
The situation of this temple of Latti
Devi is
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view of Hatu reange in the back drop |
very interesting. Considering it as the pivot, the central focal point,
down in the direction of South, but at the altitude of 3400 mts (11,152 feet)
on the loftier hill known as Hattu, is situated a famous temple of Durga Devi Hateshwari,
who is the Kuldevi / kulja / primordial mother of the people of the surrounding
areas. Towards North-East of this temple, but downhill about 2 kms (crow
distance may be only less than ½ km) is situated a very impressive and a large
ancient temple of Jishar Devata (Mahadev) at Khadahan. This is truly
magnificent example of ancient Pahari wood carvings, wooden mural sculptures, wooden bas-reliefs and metal masks in silver,
copper and asthadhatu (mixture of eight precious metals). Towards South-East
direction of this temple of Latti Devi is situated another temple of Kali
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Jishar Devata as seen from Latti Devi |
at a
place known as Kot. This is equally
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Shrikhand Mahadev |
ancient temple perched at lofty surrounding
heights. Still in another direction of true North, Shrikhand Mahadev is visible
with naked eyes (better view with binocular), on the milky white snowy range of
Himalaya. Pilgrims throng this place in
rainy seasons in the month of July, exact dates depend upon the readings of
panchanga. A religious flag-staff (chaddi-mubarak) is carried to this place of
Shrikhand Mahadev and the journey starts from the ancient temple of Parshuram
at Nirmand, a village in Kullu. In this direction there is also a temple of
Bhimakali at Sarahan.
|
Sh Maya Ram and Sh Dharam Pal |
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Hatu -- Devi temple |
Sadly enough, for want of proper care
and paucity of funds required for maintenance of this little but important
temple, this temple of Laati Devi is on the verge of further deterioration.
People residing in the immediate vicinity worship here and take care of this
structure but in a very unscientifically manner. It will be not far before
whatever structure is visible today will not be there for coming generations to
see and even remember. A serious effort is needed to protect this living
monument by both the believers of the area and the various agencies of the
Government meant for the purpose of maintaining at least status-quo. This
temple stands out as the landmark of our ancient culture and history. The basic
information about this temple of Latti Devi was imparted by two residents of
this village, Sh Dharam Pal Bhardwaj, a scientist posted in Central Water Works
Deptt of Chattisgarh; and Sh Maya Ram Sharma, a retired Principal from Deptt of
Education, Himachal Pradesh.
Ramshackled kholi of Chote Dev :
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Outer wall of khoi of Chote Dev |
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Eroded bas-relief |
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Carving on the inner side of gate arch |
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Floral and human bas relief |
A little below the temple of Latti
Devi there is a magnificent gateway (entrance
edifice) carved in stone which is now in very dilapidated, ignored and pathetic
state of condition. It can only be imagined what a massive and beautiful temple
of Chote Dev might have existed at this place in the bygone era. The whole
structure, what ever it was, might have imparted a flamboyant sight to this
place when it was first built up at least one thousand years earlier. Behind
this gate there now stands a modern residential structure in local style. Farther
at the rear end of this residence there stands a wall, submerged in debris,
measuring at least 25 meter in length.
It seems in olden times it was a massive structure. The family that
lives in this compound tells that their ancestors told them that there used to
stand a three storied structure here. One can only wander about who were the
people who carved such beautiful worship places in such remote corners of this
Himalayan region.
As per belief it was here at this
place that the original Devata Mohra (mask of deity) was worshipped. This deity
was brought out in the open at rare occasions. After all the auspicious
ceremonies deity was again
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Some god caved in stone |
reverently placed on a wooden stool (Chauki) in the
upper story (daddak) of the temple. Once upon a time some of the children
playfully brought out the deity out in the open without anybody’s knowledge.
Some elder woman got angry over children and raised her hand to slap and punish
playing children, but to everybody’s surprise her hand became still up in the
air. The deity conveyed (local people know how the deities customarily convey
their feelings through the human mediums) that it was his own wish to come out
and play with children. From that day onward the mask of the deity was placed in
the temple of Jishar Devata, about ½ km downward from this place. To this day
even this deity normally does not come out in its palki / rath (chariot) except
on some special occasions when it visits invitee families. At that time the
whole area gets immersed in festive frenzy. This deity becomes presiding host
for the welcome of the visiting deities at the time of Bhunda (Narbali) Yajya.
The deities of extreme importance who visit this place of Jishar Devata are :
Deities of Melan, Mejhevati, Nirath and Nirmand along with Kali of Addoo, Naag
Devata of Naagadhar and many others of similar importance.
Jishar Devata of Khadaan /
Kharan :
As mentioned above this is a temple
of extreme historical and cultural importance since time immemorial. This is
situated at the confluence of
|
View of Jishar complex Kharahan |
|
Sh Lal Chand Sharma with Mohras |
two pahari khuds in Khadaan village which has
population of about 355 persons living in about 87 households. The famous
Bhunda yajya is celebrated here with all the festive and religious fervor.
Narbali (human sacrifice) was carried here in old times through a very
dangerous but courageous act of a man
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Palki of Jishar Devata |
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Beautiful stone carvings |
sliding down a huge rope tied to the
poles at a precipitous hill down through the ground level of temple. The man
thus sliding down at a tremendous speed would have less chance of survival.
This feat of suicidal act was carried at other places as well namely: Shuli,
Nirmand (Parshuram temple), Bachunch and Dalgaon at Rohru. Now thanks to
intervention of Government agencies and by the will of people this dangerous
act has now been discontinued at all the places. Thanks to Sh Lal Chand Sharma,
a priest in service of Jishar Devata, for this brief but important information.